Coming out of Florida on my cross country journey was a milestone for me. Finishing one state was something all new to me, a novice touring rider. What I was about to learn was each state prepares you for the next. The challenges of Florida led to the joys of Alabama. The people I met along this section of the south well made my trip all the more special.
My life has always been a little bit of drifting from point to point, always reacting in someway or another. I know many people think that all who wander are lost well that is not really true. Sometimes I seem to know exactly where I am going just not sure how to get there. In this case I knew where I was heading it was out of Florida....and into Alabama.
After dealing with a gun toting maniac about 9 miles from the Florabama line I was ready to be out of that state. There is something surreal about crossing your first state line. Something that can only be described by doing it. The sheer amount of effort put forth to make it that kind of distance is a reward all its own. Overcoming the challenges of day in and day out riding, adapting to bugs, loneliness, exhaustion, and tent life all becomes a thing of the past when you cross your first state line. The feeling of accomplishment is second to none to know you put the effort out and the reward was you made it and you did not die.
At the Florabama line I stopped to revel in the feeling of making my first stop I sat there roadside at a not so spectacular stop. Coming down Route 90 or the Old Spanish Trail is beautiful but not really anything of note worthy to see in this area except for a sign I had longed to see after 400 some odd miles. Crossing the Perdido River into Alabama brought lunch and down time.
The sign says it all about Alabama, it sure is purty. I sat there at that sign and broke out a small little treat a tuna fish sandwich and a chocolate bar. Being on the road in hundred degree heat is not conducive to carrying chocolate, but this was special so I bought it just up the road. As I sat there on the side of the bridge end eating a car came pulling up. The couple that shared food with me at the Dead Lakes in Florida pulled up. They are from Rhode Island and were spending a month traveling along the south Bass fishing.
They stuck to Route 90 hoping to come across me again, considering it was 236 miles since we saw each other last. It was a welcomed surprise a pleasant break in the world and nice to know I had made some new friends after all. So roadside we sat laughing and talking sharing stories and well just being in the moment....eventually though it had to end and well to this day I hope to see them again.
After this milestone lunch ended it was time to get these legs moving again. I started to pump my legs faster and faster. This stretch of Route 90 is a simple joy to ride. Nice large shoulders, relatively flat and good shade. As I am a triple survivor and have once been dead I stopped at the next river crossing. I was about to cross the River Styx and well for being someone who has once been dead if crossing the River Styx even in name does not cause you a little pause then there may be something wrong with you.
One of the hard parts about this section of the country is the lack of camping areas. There are several RV parks, but not many of them allow tent camping let alone a cross country cyclist. But what I found though was the best of Humanity. I tried a few camping facilities to no avail. I was starting to get concerned, but one of the RV parks gave me the name of a local man named Gene, saying that he may let me camp on his property. Well I had nothing to loose so I reached out to him. He answered and after a few minutes of talking he told me to cycle up, set up my tent and he would even leave the door to his cabin open for me to come in and relax. I'm sorry I'm from the North East where you just don't do this. You do not invite a stranger into your life and world....you do not help a stranger. Well not down south down south you better or they may just revoke your southern hospitality card.
Gene did just as he said there was a luscious green patch of grass next to his cabin, the door was unlocked and the couch was comfortable. There was even a dog who had the most insane smile, I think he had a stroke and well he just liked being near me.
Gene got home at the time he said he would and we took a few minutes to talk and introduce ourselves. I was so overwhelmed with gratitude it was kind of weird. People just don't open their house like this and I knew at that moment that the universe has me and that their are amazing people out there. Gene, is one of those good people, a woman who he put up in a camper on his property was going to make us a real home cooked meal. Her name was Kim and she like Gene was an absolute pleasure. She spends her day refurbishing what others considers junk, an artist at heart with an eye for taken the broken and making it beautiful. The meal she made us was awesome and we sat there on a random Tuesday night in a state I had never been to with what seemed like life long friends. We laughed hugged and even cried a little over our life tales. It was a special moment in my life and one I will not soon forget.
The next morning it was time to make Mobile and pack up camp. I wished everyone well and hit the road....one sight I saw on my way out of Gene's and I may have missed its beauty but what I saw for as far as I could see was a field of cotton. If you have never seen a field of cotton, then you are missing something beautiful and if you get a chance stop and take a look. That is part of the beauty of riding a bicycle across the country. You get to stop and appreciate things like this, things being in a car you just drive past and say "oh look" instead on a bike you get to stop and be a part of that moment.
Alabama, has no where near the traffic one might think. People don't drive like the dukes of hazzard and everyone was very mindful of me being on a bicycle. The state has also mandated the 3 foot rule and made it a very public thing so when I was coming through most people were great with giving me room. One down side was on newly paved sections of Route 90 they did add a bike lane however put the rumble strip right down the middle of the bike lane....making for some rough riding at times.
My next stop was with a Warm shower host Ellen. She was excited to have me come by and I was looking forward to meeting her. An avid cyclist and a cross country rider herself I could not wait for her to pass her knowledge along to me. The road into Mobile is actually a joy. Coming through the suburbs aI stopped at a local bike shop for some help with directions. this is where I was told about the Bridge. A huge suspension bridge that goes straight up crests and straight down.
With about 60 miles already behind me I was not looking forward to this climb in traffic but I went for it after all. I had no choice. This again is one of the beauties of cycling, you literally have no choice you either go or you stay put....So upward I went.
Now keep in mind the ride to this bridge was heaven for a cyclist. While crossing Mobile Bay on route 90 I had a 15 mph tail wind flat wide roads and made really good time getting to the giant (my name for the bridge). You also get to come up on the USS Alabama and well a Battleship is a sight to see. Stay on 90 alt guys you can not cross any other way.
After crossing the giant it was all downhill right through a rough little neighborhood and right up to a womans house who opens her doors to cyclists for as long as they care to stay. A special kind of woman one who well expects nothing but company and conversation. Ellen had plans for us and well tired or not I had no choice but to take her up on it....after all she was my host.
We headed into downtown mobile for the Greek Festival. Many people do not know how large the greek community is in this area. I had no idea, but it turns out about half the city of mobile is of a greek heritage. It was one of the major settlement areas for greek immigrants into the United States. At this festival I bought myself one of my only souvenirs and one I will always wear....
The next morning, Ellen had something else planned for me and even though I was tired we rode our bicycles into mobile to participate in a very special monthly thing. Cycling is rather big in the south and more and more people are starting to commute via bicycle. However not everyone can even afford a bicycle. So this group of local cycling enthusiasts have put together a little non profit called the Gulf Shore Project. It is like I said a group of cycling enthusiasts, who once a month get together to take scrap bikes and make them into one complete bike. Some they sell for pennies on the dollar and some they give away.
Ellenp and I stopped by pitched in a little time and I even donated a few items from my sponsor Schwinn to some of the locals. I really enjoyed giving back and being a part of this and on my return trip I plan on making it a point to be more involved with these fine folks.
I do not know if Ellen takes everyone to Gulf Shore but I do know she introduces everyone to WENTZELLS World Famous Oyster house. Now being from Maryland I thought I knew all about seafood. I thought I had already eaten the best oysters. Not even close. the oysters that come from the Mobile Bay are by far some of the best I have ever eaten. This Oyster house is actually world famous and well worth the stop. The oysters in this pick are the smalls and the signs in the restaurant alone are worth the stop.
The next morning it was time to get some distance again. Going along the southern Route you really don't get to see enough of Alabama. A simply beautiful state with some of the most amazing people. The ride to Mississippi was not adventurous but it was nice and comfortable. The city of Mobile, a pleasant nice city, the people were amazing and the roads were great.
A few things that I had learned in this short little trip through Alabama. First everyone warns you about the next state. People from Florida warned me about Alabama and people in Alabama warned me about Mississippi. Make up your own mind. I found the people of Alabama to be giving, nice pleasant and beyond accommodating. After beating my body up with my first state it nice to roll through a second state in just a few days. It was nice to know the universe has provided good people and a place like Alabama to ride through....I even learned the lesson of what it means to be a guest. What it means to enjoy others hospitality and that not everyone wants something from you. This is what cycling gives it gives you the ability to be close to the world and people around you.
So down Route 90 I travelled always looking forward to what lies ahead....and that was the great crooked letter state of Mississippi
