With week one of The Great Loop in the books, we have been to three fantastic spots--each unique in their own way, yet similar. All journeys start with certain expectations, and almost all fall short within the first week, but not these three spots. Each destination added just a little more to a journey that is epic in its very scope, building on top of the others like any great journey should. As with all great journeys, there are two things to keep in mind: First, it is the journey, not the destination; and secondly, it is about the experience—for example, the people you meet are just as important as the things you see and do…if not even a little more so.
Amelia Island is the northernmost barrier island in Florida. It boasts the earliest sunrise in Florida, as well as the oldest bar in the state. The Palace Saloon is also arguably the oldest continuously operating bar in the country; however, more on this place later. Amelia Island is the largest of the three islands we visited, and is also the most diverse. Being the home of Fernandina Beach, it has the tourists, the snow birds, and the year-rounders (a.k.a. the locals). For the populace, ranging in every economic class from pauper to prince, there seems to be a little something for everyone on historic Amelia Island.
While we were docked in the harbor for three days, I decided to explore this historic island—and historic it is. Because of its deep harbor channel and easy access to land, this was a favorite location for pirates whose legends the locals love to preserve. Statues, pirate flags hoisted around town, and even a festival revolve around the lore of pirating.
It is this love of piracy, I think, that attracts so many to the island. Or it may be the beautiful beaches, the incredible shopping, or perhaps it is the extensive variety of food. As I mentioned earlier, whatever it is, Amelia Island is diverse in it: from fine French cuisine to Po Boy sandwiches, there is something to satisfy everyone's taste. One of my favorite spots was Burlingame, a new restaurant that has a very limited, but very high end, menu. Each meal is prepared perfectly and the food is exceptional. However, if this eatery does not suit you, one of the other 25 restaurants within 8 square blocks will surely delight your palate, and maybe even your budget—I guarantee that.
The range of cuisine shows the diversity of the island almost as much as the bars do. From fancy, shirts-must-have-a-collar bars to the more casual Palace, there is a place for everyone. In town, on Centre Street, I found a little piano bar called Alley Cats, whose claim to fame is having the best Sangria in Florida (at least according to them). Inside, there were several dozen tipsy patrons.
This brings me now to a place that in the short period of time that I have spent on the island has tied itself to my soul, and I am surely guaranteed to return. The Palace Saloon is where all walks of life come together. At the Palace, you do not know if you are talking to a millionaire or to the person who washes dishes at the bar up the street. Now, don’t get me wrong; you can kind of tell who the tourists are by their attempt to relax, but as for the people who call this place home, they are relaxed. It is a way of life, not just a state of being, and it is evident—but that is the only way you can tell the difference.
As I said, journeys are not about the destination, but about the things you see and do and the people you meet. During my short stint on Amelia Island, I rode my bicycle across the island, stopped to lie on the beach, and visited the old Spanish fort. I also spent time with the locals, listened to their stories, and met some truly memorable souls.
For instance, there was Johnny, the mayor of Fernandina and also the head bartender of the Palace. Yes. The mayor is the bartender and is probably the best bartender I have ever seen. With Johnny, a beer mug is never empty for more than a second before he refills it. However, as you can imagine, this leads to some nonstop drinking, but it also kicks up a ton of good-natured conversations, which leads me to another person I met on the island, Alex.
Alex is a transplanted local who was once a major player in the Atlanta rap music scene. At the age of 28, and with a child on the way, he and his wife moved to the island and started a flat-bottom boat charter service. A real pleasure to be around, Alex seemed to know a great deal for being in town for only a short time. He took me for a drive around the island and showed me some interesting, off-beat locations including John Grisham's home and the house used for the movie Pippi Longstocking.
Then I met two women who looked so much alike that I swore they were sisters; but in this case, I was wrong because they were actually mother and daughter. I also had the privilege of meeting a few new island transplants, Hal and Dotty. They divorced 46 years ago, met again after having no contact for 45 years, and discovered they were still in love. They remarried and traveled to the island for their honeymoon. And one morning, Dotty woke up and said, “We are buying a house here”, and that was that. Hey! This makes me believe there is hope for me yet! Finally, I met a woman who shared a few things about the people of Amelia. A European woman of almost 70, with the looks and attitude of a woman half her age, Doris set me straight on something. She told me the secret to the town and the island: no one there cares. They don't care how much money you have, where you are from, or what you can do for them. Nope. It is all about enjoying the moment. And after that conversation is when it happened.
When I say “it”, let me put it to you this way: I have travelled many miles and visited many towns, but I have never had this experience until I got to Amelia Island. I was asked not by just one person, but probably by at least a dozen people: “When are you going to move to town and become a full-time resident?” I was told people would help me find a place to live as well as a place to work. Never in all my travels have ever I had this experience, and it made me feel like home. I actually liken it to their pirate-roots outlook of once you are accepted, they want to keep you around. And because of this, I will return to Amelia. But alas, it was time to depart and head to our next stop: relaxation central for the ultra rich, Cumberland Island.
Cumberland Island is considered one of the last pristine wildernesses along the eastern seaboard of the United States. It boasts more wild horses than people, and it has a feeling all of its own. The picturesque landscape is dotted with marsh lands, beaches, and trees of all shapes and sizes and is truly a breathtaking beauty to behold.
On the island are the ruins of old homes to explore. These homes have long been given back to nature, but are well worth a look into the past. Only a few remain standing tall amongst the trees. You can imagine the spectacular view from these long forgotten mansions. As you stand on the stone stairs overlooking the fields of tall grass, you can see small herds of untamed horses running wild as if knowing this is truly their land and not yours.
Cumberland Island is also renowned for being the playground of the ultra rich. It has a lovely hotel that was built in 1900 as a resident’s mansion. It was converted into a hotel of the highest caliber in 1962. Now known as the Grayfield Inn, it has been host to foreign leaders and captains of industry and was even the getaway for John F. Kennedy, Jr.'s secret wedding in 1996. The waiting list for a room is long; but from everything I could tell, it is well worth the wait. From its private gardens, fresh vegetables and flowers are harvested to provide a ready supply of freshness for the visitor willing to pay the price for opulence. And I do mean opulence. With a base rate of $450 per night for a standard room, it is a little outside of this traveler’s price range.
The island is accessible only by boat. Most visitors travel to the island by the ferry that runs several times per day. Others travel by private boat as I did, dropping anchor off shore and taking the dingy in to the island. It was well worth the bumpy ride to see such splendor usually reserved for well-manicured golf courses.
The island is actually a State Park that is 17 long by 2 miles wide. Once I landed, I walked up on a herd of wild horses that couldn’t have cared less about my being there. After a few safe meetings with a stallion, it seemed as if I was a welcomed addition to their surroundings. I started to walk around the herd and eventually got to run and play with some of them as if I was one with the land. Now, I do not know if this is a common occurrence, but for me, it was a magical moment. Standing among and playing with these majestic animals was truly worth every second of my journey. Something surreal happens when you become one with nature, and now I understand why people come to this island. It is not just for the absence of automobiles (of which I saw only three), but for the sheer tranquility that comes from a place like this.
We spent only one day on the island, but to me, it seemed like a lifetime. As my cares faded away and the sun grew hotter, it was soon time take the dingy back over the waves to the La Bateau, our 45-foot trawler motor yacht, and head to our next destination. Rest assured that I will not soon forget the magic that is Cumberland Island as I look forward to returning someday.
Once aboard the La Bateau, it was off to our next destination: the famed Jekyll Island. I was looking forward to visiting the Jekyll Island Club and one of my favorite movie sets. The Jekyll Hotel has been host to several of my favorite movies and even a TV show or two.
To say that Jekyll Island’s only claim to fame is the hotel would be selling this incredible island short. Like Cumberland Island, Jekyll Island was once the home of some of the most incredible plantation-style mansions one can only imagine. However, unlike Cumberland Island, these mansions are still in all their splendor and glory. Speaking of glory, Glory is one of the movies that was filmed on the island. Other movies include with The Legend of Bagger Vance; X-Men: First Class; and currently, the TV show The Walking Dead is filmed there.
Upon our arrival at the marina, we were introduced to the marina's own restaurant and lounge, one of the few bars on the island. There was some great acoustic music playing as people enjoyed a glass of sangria or wine in the Georgia sun. Now, never being shy about meeting people, I jumped right in and started meeting people. Many of the folks were just like me, passing by on their yachts and having fun, while others were residents from all walks of life. I met a chairman from a well-known University and actually had a great conversation about the current state of affairs of the United States, as well as about how to properly throw a horseshoe. Much like Fernandina, it was a very relaxed atmosphere, one where you leave your pretentious attitudes at home and come here to just breathe and enjoy.
After a nice afternoon at the marina, it was time to head out to explore the island. Being a rather active person—I mean, I did cycle solo and unsupported halfway across the United States—I was extremely pleased to find that Jekyll Island boasts 26 miles of paved off-road bicycle and running paths. With so many people taking advantage of the paths, cars are at a minimum, and the folks who do drive are extremely aware of the people on foot.
So, off to trek around the island by bicycle I went! I found several rather serene spots to just take it all in. There were well-maintained wooden pathways over the marsh including a section of pathway that had arched oak tree limbs, and those limbs were as big as some of the tree trunks I have seen. As is typical in the South, these oak trees were adorned with the distinctive Spanish moss, which gave everything a magical feeling. That shaded path led me straight to one of the most beautiful beaches I have ever had the pleasure of seeing. The sand was soft, and it was littered with sand dollars and all types and sizes of seashells just laying about for the taking.
After a casual stroll on the beach, I walked to a little square and listened to some live music and found something extremely interesting—the island has free Wi-Fi throughout the inhabited areas. This may not seem like a big deal, but I found it fascinating that Jekyll Island has found a way to mix nature and technology in such a seamless manner. This led me to my next discovery of the island, and to one of the best meals I have ever had.
As I stated earlier, the Jekyll Hotel has not been only a movie set, but it has also played an active role in shaping America. In 1910, what we now know as The Federal Reserve was drawn up and outlined in a secret meeting at this very hotel. There is even a special room designated the Reserve Room, which is not open to the public except for viewing. After visiting the room where the financial strength of the U.S. had been determined, I went to the Grand Dining Room for breakfast. I know. I know. How good could breakfast really be? Well, let me tell you. This breakfast was mouthwatering good; the food at the hotel alone is worth the stop. The decor of the Grand Dining Room is a step back to a finer time as far as I am concerned. There was even a full-size grand piano playing music in the background. Heck! The hotel even has a croquet course on the main lawn, and it is mandatory that proper attire be worn in order to play. It was interesting to see people in their fine spring suits and dresses playing a long forgotten sport while drinking mint juleps. It was a step back into the past and truly amazing to witness.
Shortly after breakfast, I walked over to a place I really wanted to see almost as much as the hotel itself: the Georgia Sea Turtle Center. With an opportunity to not only learn about these incredible animals, but also to hold, feed, and care for a sea creature that few people will ever get to see, it was worth the contribution to the cause of the rescue. Every now and again, the Center releases turtles back to nature, and I can imagine that it is a remarkable sight to behold.
After two days on the island, it was time to prepare for the launch back out to sea; and again, much like with the wild horses of Cumberland Island, I was greeted by a wonder of nature. Two dolphins swam up the channel to the marina and came right up to the boat. They were not fast, nor were they threatening; they were just interested in saying hello. They got so close that I could touch them, and, well, that is a special kind of magic. It was the perfect end to the first three stops of my Great Loop adventure.
